Island Peak trip with a gold star sherpa
Before I dive into a thorough review, first some background information: together with a friend I booked the Island Peak trip where we chose our own dates and decided not to be part of the group trekking to Everest Base Camp.
Let me start off with a recommendation: I would advise everyone to book at least one, if not a few days extra on top of the original itinerary due to potential weather issues at Lukla airport. It seems global warming is also shifting the hiking season in the Himalayas since the weather mid-October was unusually foggy at the airport, both in the week we were supposed to fly to Lukla, as well as the day of our return to Kathmandu in the first week of November. Both times the weather was bad, and hundreds of passengers were stuck at airports, some for days on end.
Luckily for us, the Momo Trekking team jumped into action both times, looking into alternatives and presenting us with the facts on the situation. In our case the choice was quite simple: either risk getting stuck at an alternative airport for days and miss our chance at summiting Island Peak, or drive 17+ hours (due to the flood-damaged roads) in several stages to Thamdanda from where we would be able to start our hike and potentially still be able to catch up to our original schedule.
The drive was exceptionally taxing, and initially we made it clear that it would be a “once-in-a-lifetime” experience, but when faced with the exact same scenario at Lukla on our return trip, and now with a real possibility of missing our international flight, the choice was made even faster this time. Please note, however, that this time as well our sherpa guide had tried everything, but people were starting to outbid the few remaining helicopter seats and the price per person had reached USD 1000, which was not worth it. Another road trip of 17+ hours, but this time the road had improved in places making the ride not as tiring.
Both times, the logistics of the ad hoc transportation and accommodation was arranged impeccably by the Momo Trekking team. Something we definitely would not have been able to do ourselves.
Unfortunately, due to personal health problems (food poisoning in Kathmandu when we wandered on our own), we were unable to proceed with the Island Peak course. Nevertheless, our sherpa guide offered us an alternative: after climbing Kala Patthar and trekking to EBC we could go over Cho La pass and cross the Ngozumpa glacier to visit Gokyo Lake, and take an alternative route back to Lukla, enabling us to see more of the Himalayas.
Throughout the journey, the places recommended for lunch or overnight stay were great. Though after a long day trekking, barely reaching the village upon sunset (sometimes after, as we were slow) you really hoping the very first lodge to be yours, but the team had arranged for accommodation further back in the village for a reason: it would be quieter and cozier.
Personally, I was surprised by the infrastructure, as even as high as Gorak Shep (5,140 m) you could use wi-fi. Granted, this luxury in the mountains doesn’t come cheap.
Lastly, and I cannot underline this enough, the quality and enjoyment of our trip was elevated to exceptional heights due to our extraordinary sherpa guide, Sonam Jangbu Sherpa, without whom we would have missed out on so many things. It was an absolute joy to listen to his local knowledge and experiences, and I will miss his daily breakdown and planning sessions at the end of the day, where he would ask us about our highs and our lows. Jangbu would make things crystal-clear for us, what the next day would bring. Without his local connections, I think our trip would have been very different. A gold star sherpa guide, in my opinion!
A shout-out also to our fourth team member, Dhan Kumar Rai, the porter who tirelessly carried our heavy duffel bags and additional gear. Though his ability to communicate in English was limited, he was always keen to try to listen and answer our questions. If he wasn’t walking far ahead (Nepali porters are very fast), he would always keep an eye out, to make sure we were safe on the trail.
Despite the setbacks it turned out to be a very fulfilling trip with lots of experiences, all thanks to our sherpa guide, our porter, and the Momo Trekking team.
My recommendation to the Momo Trekking team would be to focus further on international clientele, living in the Netherlands, or beyond.